Saturday, December 26, 2020

Dark Milk Chocolate from Nibs

Dark chocolate is made of 50-90% cocoa solids and butter. Milk chocolate is made of at least 12% dairy. This recipe meets both requirements, making it dark milk chocolate. It's our favorite. :)

To make chocolate from nibs, you will need a refiner/melanger. I have this one. I get my nibs and cocoa butter from https://www.cocoasupply.com.


Re-Tempered, not perfect but makes me happy, and tastes great!

Beans roasted in the Combi Oven

Toasted powdered dairy mixed with sugar

Mostly-melted cocoa butter

Cocoa butter added to Refiner/Melanger

Cacao nibs added to cocoa butter

Half the dairy/sugar added. Machine labors a bit

Once machine smooths out a bit, added remaining
dairy/sugar; machine labors again.

After 30 - 45 min, starting to look like chocolate

After a day in the refiner/melanger, very smooth and creamy

First attempt at tempering. Started out in temper, but room 
conditions (too warm, maybe too humid), began degrading. 
Needed re-tempering.


Dark Milk Chocolate

Note: volume measurements are listed to give a notion on the quantities, but ingredients really should be weighed for best results.

57% Chocolate (42% cocoa butter)/ 13.3% Milk, fiber makes it Dex#

(w/o Benefiber: 60% Chocolate (44% cocoa butter), 14% milk, still is Dex+)

- This would be a 70% dark chocolate if the dairy and fiber was not added.

3.3 lb batch; ~ 6.6 cups, melted.

Ingredients          

500 g         (3.33 cup)      cacao nibs (480 g if already roasted)

125 g         (1.84 cup)      fat-free powdered milk

84 g           (0.88 cup)      cream powder

381 g         (1.75 cup)      Cocoa butter

78 g           (0.39 cup)      sugar

309 g         (2.45 cup)      anhydrous dextrose*

76 g           (0.9 cup)        Benefiber

50 drops                           Propylene Glycol-based Bourbon Vanilla Flavor**

16 g                                  Cocoa butter silk***

 

Directions

1.    Roast the cacao nibs.

2.    Caramelize the milk powder:

a.    Preheat oven to 300° true convection.

b.    Combine milk and cream powders; spread on parchment-lined baking sheet.

c.    Bake until milk takes on a lightly golden-caramel color, about 10 minutes. Stir half-way through.

3.    Melt the cocoa butter in the microwave, add to the refiner/melanger bowl, and start it. Gradually add roasted cacao nibs.

5.    Mix together toasted milk & cream powder, sugar, anhydrous dextrose, and benefiber. Add some to the refiner/melanger, waiting until it smooths out before adding more. The motor may labor noticeably as the powders are added. The chocolate mixture will start out thick and grainy, but all of the dry ingredients will eventually work in and become smooth.

6.    Add Propylene Glycol-based vanilla flavor (not extract, not vanilla bean paste).

7.    Refine for 20 - 24 hours, or until smooth and lovely.

8.    Temper your chocolate by this or other method of  your choice:

a.    Check the temperature of the chocolate while still running in the melanger. If it is below 104°F, heat it gently using a hair dryer.

b.  Turn off the melanger, and wait for the temperature to drop to 94°F. Optionally turn it on occasionally to equalize the temperature of the chocolate.

c.  Add the cocoa butter silk, and stir in for a minute, or pulse the machine on a turn or two to mix fully. Try to keep the temperature between 90 - 92°F, and pour immediately into chocolate bar molds.

d.  Place setting chocolate in a 59°-68°F low-humidity room until completely firm and snappy. Cycle in and out of the fridge if necessary to achieve the right temperature.


* You can substitute regular sugar, but that adds back a bunch of fructose, which I am trying to avoid. Using dextrose gives a less-intense sweetness, which we prefer. To make anhydrous from dextrose monohydrate, preheat oven to 175°F. Spread the dextrose monohydrate onto a cooking sheet, then bake for 2 hours. It is now anhydrous dextrose.

** Use Propylene Glycol based flavor so it doesn’t seize the chocolate. Like this one: https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-8262-madagascar-bourbon-vanilla-flavor.aspx; or scrape a vanilla bean into the chocolate instead, or use powdered vanillin.

*** Buy tempered cocoa butter and shave it fine, or temper yourself per https://chocolatealchemy.com/how-to-make-cocoa-butter-silk/  I did the sous vide method, and it was pretty straight-forward. Or you can substitute 48 g finely shaved tempered chocolate.



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